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weather-
rainy, windy, mid 40's
The sun was out briefly
today and all in all was a lovely day minus the rain, although I don't
really mind the rain- but it did make our walking tour a bit obnoxious.
Our day started rather early, leaving Salisbury behind at 9:30, we were
on our way to Bath.
We met our tour guide outside the Roman Baths to begin our tour of the
city (walking of course).
Bath,
originally known as Habatha (meaning Hot Bath), is the only place in England
where natural hot springs are present. Hot springs occur when an accumulation
of water makes its way through the earth, heats up, finds a crack in the
surface and bubbles up to create a natural hot spring. The Romans discovered
these hot baths between 55 BC and AD 43- eventually the Romans had developed
numerous towns around England and Bath was one of them. The cities designed
on a grid-like pattern, contained their castles, temples, amphitheaters,
and spas. The most notable of these spa cities is Bath. The Romans built
up around these natural hot springs as well as constructed a water system
to funnel the hot water into their newly built spas. Most of these spas
were built between 65 and 75 AD. Around these bathing areas were also
temples of worship and separate private baths. The Roman
Bath Museum has preserved sections of these temples and bath areas.
The excavation areas contain the actual steps leading up to the temples
and many of the arches around doorways. The rounded temples were called
tholos and were set on the outside of the complex for worship. The actual
bath was set in the center of the complex, still to this day the original
lead lining and bath structure is in tact. 2000 years later the water
is still flowing and the bath still fully functioning, although swimming
is not recommended. The main pool is five feet deep, perfect for swimming
and remains a fairly consistent 80°F. 2000 years ago the pool was
a clear blue, now because of time and the environment the water has a
green tint from the algae and is no longer safe for swimming. On days
like today the steam rises from the surface of the pool, as the rain drops
meet the hot water and actually looks pretty inviting! As we moved through
the rest of the displays we saw recreations of the archways and combinations
of stones that have been uncovered in the years past. Some of the most
interesting were the temple pediments, one showing Gorgon's head; a symbol
that resembles a sun god, in comparison to the heat of the springs. We
were also able to see parts of the unearthed temple courtyard. At this
point in history, the Romans left and other civilizations built up around
their deteriorating structures. The Normans and the Saxons were next to
come and build around Bath.
In 1499, the Bath
Abbey was constructed in the center of the town, as ordered by Henry VII.
Before the Abbey was built, Henry swears he had a dream where there was
angels climbing to heaven on ladders and so the design on the front of
this abbey is two ladders on either side of the entrance with twenty or
so angels climbing to heaven.
As the eighteenth century approached Bath became a health retreat for
the upper class people of London. In 1700, townhouses were built, so the
rich would have some place other than a hotel to stay while they were
receiving their treatments. The Royal Mineral Hospital was established
in 1736 and began the healthcare boom of that time. Eventually, Bath was
considered the posh place to be and because of the healing powers of the
natural spring water everyone and their moms were flocking to see what
the fuss was about. Architects from all over the world were coming to
Bath to build new modern buildings. Many of them were mimicking the style
of the Romans, using crescent shaped structures. The most famous of this
shaped building is the Royal Crescent containing 31 townhouses built for
visiting Royals. The building was designed by John Wood. John Wood and
his son lived in Queen's Square and designed many of the featured buildings
Bath. King's Circus, was another crescent shaped building built by the
Wood team. This particular building was designed in the style of Roman
Circles, except that the King's Circus has only three streets enter the
circle, instead of the Roman four. This particular building has very detailed
freezes at the tops of each section of the circle, Wood says many of the
subjects of these freezes credit the animal who gave him the idea to build
this circle, pigs. Acorns adorn the tops of the townhouses because they
are pig's favorite food.
The Assembly Rooms were next on the tour, built in the 1700's the rooms
were very difficult to construct. The rooms were built for social gathering
and meant to hold between 800 and 1200 guests total in both the upper
and lower rooms. Today, we are only allowed to see the upper rooms, but
they are decorated in rich colors with elaborate chandeliers hanging from
the center. At these parties held in the Assembly Rooms, the guests would
start with a stately minuet, followed by the older folks and men going
to a separate room to play cards and gamble their inherited fortunes away.
A certain, Mr. Roubucks won £33,000 in one bet and used the money
to build a castle in the shape of the club, his winning card.
The Pulteny Bridge was next on the tour, and is one of two bridges in
Europe to contain shops right on the bride. It was designed by Robert
Adam in the early 1900's.
After the tour I had the opportunity to visit the Museum
of Costume. The display started in the 18th century and touched on
highlights and popular items of the times all the way up to today. A few
interesting facts that I learned on the audio tour; the name of the tall
bow tie worn in the 1800's was called a cravat. The myth of the 18 inch
waist was dispelled by an actual corset of the time, that's purpose indeed
was to create a 21 inch waist. Muslin at the time was considered to be
one of the finest fabrics and this was referenced in our Jane
Austen reading from Northanger Abbey;
"Do
you understand muslin, sir?"
"Particularly well; I always buy my own cravats and am allowed to
be an excellent judge and my sister often trusted me in the choice of
gowns. I bought one for her the other day, and it was pronounced to be
a prodigious bargain by every lady who saw it. I gave but five shillings
a yard for it and true Indian muslin."
Upon
leaving the museum, I could hear the rain beating on the roof, so I did
some looking around in the gift shop (great books and cards, one of the
best gift shop of the whole trip!) and waited for the rain to stop.
I did some shopping on my own and really enjoyed the overall atmosphere
of Bath. It was quite nice to enjoy some time alone, shopping where I
wanted to shop and stopping where I wanted to shop. And it was quite nice
just to listen to the noises of the city; cars, buses, busy people, school
children, chiming bells and many more. I stopped at a small coffee shop
on my way back and go an "oats" cookie (aka oatmeal raisin)
and a tea. I found my way back to our Pratt
Hotel- a lovely early 1900's design, squeezed in between two other
hotels. Our room was very cozy, high ceilings, a pull string light in
the bathroom and huge windows. We had a slowly served three course meal
(more chicken and salmon) and closed the evening with a fun game with
new groups of people- it made us laugh and reflect on the last five days
of traveling. It seems like we've been on the road for so much longer
than five days- we are growing into our english accents and we are getting
braver everyday about going out on our own and exploring the towns.
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